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Senin, 31 Maret 2008

Maluku (Moluccas)


Maluku (Moluccas), a region of Indonesia formerly known as the Spice Islands, was once the source of cloves and nutmeg, spices highly valued for their aroma, preservative ability, and use in medicine before people learned how to cultivate the plants in other parts of the world. Maluku is a cluster of about one thousand islands totaling 74,504 square kilometers, forming part of the Malay Archipelago in eastern Indonesia near New Guinea. The region is divided into two provinces, Maluku with its capital in Ambon, and North Maluku (2002 estimated population 913,000), with its capital in Ternate; other important islands in the group include Halmahera, Seram, and Buru.

Its approximately 1000 islands support a population of less than 1.7 million people. The average population density figure is 19 people per-square kilometer, but the distribution is uneven. Air and sea transportation is the main means, which link the islands together. The province has 32 seaports and 20 airports, and only about 160 km of roads. However, good roads on many of the islands provide easy access to the often-remote places of tourists' interest.

jakarta

Jakarta is the capital city of the Republic of Indonesia, a country composed of more than 13,000 islands with a population of over 180 million. Comprising more than 300 ethnic groups speaking 200 different languages, the Indonesia population exhibits marked diversity in its linguistic, culture, and religious traditions. As the Capital City, Jakarta is a melting pot of representatives from each of these ethnic groups. Jakarta is a special territory enjoying the status of a province, consisting of Greater Jakarta, covering of 637.44 square km area. Located on the northern coast of West Java, it is the center of government, commerce and industry and has an extensive communications network with the rest of the country and the outside world. Strategically positioned in the archipelago, the city is also the principal gateway to the rest of Indonesia. From the Capital City, sophisticated land, air, and sea transport is available to the rest of the country and beyond.

YOGYAKARTA

Yogyakarta Special Region (Daerah Istimewa Yogyakarta, DIY) is officially one of Indonesia's 32 provinces. Yogyakarta is one of the foremost cultural centers of Java. This region is located at the foot of the active Merapi volcano, Yogyakarta was in the 16th and 17th centuries the seat of the mighty Javanese empire of Mataram from which present day Yogyakarta has the best inherited of traditions. The city itself has a special charm, which seldom fails to captivate the visitor.

This province is one of the most densely populated areas of Indonesia. The city came into being in 1755, after the Mataram division into the Sultanates of Yogyakarta and Surakarta (Solo). Gamelan, classical and contemporary Javanese dances, wayang kulit (leather puppet), theater and other expressions of traditional art will keep the visitor spellbound. Local craftsmen excel in arts such batiks, silver and leather works. Next to the traditional, contemporary art has found fertile soil in Yogya's culture oriented society. ASRI, the Academy of Fine Arts is the center of arts and Yogyakarta itself has given its name to an important school of modern painting in Indonesia, perhaps best personified by the famed Indonesian impressionist, the late Affandi.

Rabu, 26 Maret 2008

Silver Kota Gede



Jogja is a shopper's paradise for many of Jakarta residents and visitors to Indonesia. One of its most popular areas is Kota Gede, known for being the first capital city and for – its silver. You can pretty much find anything here from the very basic necklaces, rings and earrings, to the kitsch and outlandish like silver bajaj and plated cat skull ashtrays.

Kota Gede can be pretty daunting with many stores offering identical items. Because of this, many visitors opt to hit up the big crafters like Tom's Silver and Ansor's Silver, which are sort of one-stop shopping spots. At these places you can find Buddha Statues, plates, shell and silver necklaces, serving spoons, barrettes, frames, chokers, candelabras, and a variety of statues and figurines. But keep in mind, prices tend to be a bit higher here.

Places like MD Silver don't have the variety of Tom's or Ansor's, but the prices are more affordable. And they also have a workshop where you can watch the crafters, some of whom have been working with silver for over 20 years. One fascinating bit you'll learn as you watch the silver smiths is actually the polishing process, where they use a seed called Larax, that produces a soap-like foam when rubbed on silver and polishes better than any western product I've ever seen.

Mila's Silver is a popular option for its variety and affordable prices as they often have discounts. Yas' silver, the shop of Achmed Yasir, in Jl. Tirtodipuran is another popular choice for those favoring smaller shops. At most stores you can try your hand at bargaining, but the price is usually fixed in the larger outlets.

If you have a particular design in mind, most shops in Kota Gede can create it for you. Cost and completion time depends on the amount of silver and the complexity of the design.

Some visitors to Kota Gede opt to do a bit of their own silversmithing, which can be quite good fun. These mini-workshops usually last a few hours and you learn about the process from start to finish and make your very own ring or charm. Belgian traveller's café, Via Via Café, on Jl. Prawirotaman will organize this workshop, among others. And they serve fantastic food. Be sure to stop by when you're in town.

Senin, 24 Maret 2008

Puppet No Longer


If you don’t speak Indonesian, you wouldn’t have been astonished by what Defense Minister Juwono Sudarsono said at a recent press conference as he stood next to his visiting American counterpart Donald Rumsfeld. Or how he said it. If you do speak Indonesian, you know that something extraordinary happened: a profound, public insult. Almost a slap in the face, in fact, to a Bush administration out to bolster anti-terrorism efforts by deigning to resume military cooperation with an Indonesia it had been punishing for human rights violations in now independent East Timur.

The tone and content of Sudarsono’s remarks are a clear indication of how low the US has fallen in the eyes of the world. The Bush administration needs the world’s largest Muslim country, it seems, but Indonesia is not so sure it needs the US. At least not on US terms.

Modern American prose style goes back to Hemingway: short sentences with active verbs. Bang. Bang. Bang. Like rounds of ammunition being squeezed off with a hunting rifle.

This is not the normal Indonesian style. I remember when, fresh out of Indonesian training, I first got to Jakarta. I found some of my colleagues in the press section of USIS complaining that the editorials they were forced to read and report on were badly written and hard to follow. “Why don’t they just get to the point?” was the complaint. “Why do they beat around the bush?”

There were, in fact, two very good reasons for the convoluted style.

For one thing, people who disagreed too openly and strongly with the Suharto regime were likely to be disappeared. Hard to identify corpses turned up in gutters and backwaters with frightening frequency.

More enduringly, bluntness wasn’t (and isn’t) the Indonesian style, especially among the Javanese. Bahasa Indonesia, the Malay-based national language of the multi-linguistic Indonesian archipelago, has two forms of the passive, one more delicate than the other. Polite discourse relies on the passive. Circumlocution is another Indonesian way of getting to the point. It has an exquisite effectiveness, as connoisseurs of Henry James know, though it’s often an acquired taste for Americans. Both Sudarsono and Indonesia’s President Susilo Bambang Yudhoyono are Javanese.

Indonesia’s current leadership operates in a context of open political competition. Elegance isn’t dictated by fear these days. But cultural change doesn’t take place at the same rate as regime change, so my eyes popped when I read that Sudarsono had declared, on the record, before a clutch of international reporters, “It’s best that they [the Americans] leave the main responsibility of antiterrorist measures to the local government in question, and not be too overly insistent about immediate results arising from your perception about terrorists.” And further, “...we are very aware of the perception, or misperception, that the United States is overbearing and over-present and overwhelming in every sector of life in many nations and cultures.....” And finally: “So I was telling the Secretary just recently, just two minutes ago, that your powerful economy and your powerful military does lend to misperception and a sense of threat by many groups right across the world, not just in Indonesia....”

This is very strong stuff. Poor Rummy was so taken aback that he blundered out with a pathetic and totally unconvincing “I” statement: “I have never indicated to any country that they should do something that they were uncomfortable doing.”

This from the man who once bestrode the globe telling everyone what to do! And “once upon a time” is the key concept here. That’s precisely what the Jakarta Post stresses in an editorial that appeared just before the US Secretary of Defense arrived in Jakarta.

Rumsfeld is perceived here as a lame duck Cabinet member who is now preoccupied defending himself against critics in the United States....Bush has had to repeatedly defend one of his most trusted aides. As far as we can follow from reports in the Western media, trust in Rumsfeld is very much eroded among members of the American military.
Nevertheless, advised the Post editorialist, Indonesian courtesy and national interest dictate that “a legitimate American defense secretary” be properly received.
Our leaders must avoid getting caught up in the controversy and making incorrect judgements about Rumsfeld, which could harm our national interests....One of these goals for Indonesia is building a capable and professional military. The country’s armed forces suffered much during the 15-year arms embargo.
The countries share “common goals, such as fighting terrorism,” noted the Post. But the US has lost the moral high ground and is no longer “in a position to preach about how we should conduct our war on terror.”
While the United States has in the past frequently criticized Indonesia’s human rights record, it might not be too strong to say that Indonesia now treats terrorist suspects more humanely and more fairly than the US. Indonesia, for example, takes suspected terrorists to court, a step very often ignored by Washington.
After reading the Post editorial, I was no longer surprised that Sudarsono gave such tepid support to the proposal for formal military cooperation with the US: “Perhaps we can agree on a limited framework of cooperation on an ad hoc basis.”

The editorial also gave me welcome context for a little notice I have found only on the website of the Bahrain News Agency:

Indonesian Minister of Defense, Juwono Sudarsono, said today that his country will not abandon the intended purchase of Russian fighter planes. In a statement to [the] Russian News Agency, he said that purchasing fighter planes is important for the country, especially as there is a possibility that the US Congress might ban sale of military technologies to Indonesia.
So Indonesia has no intention of becoming a client state of the US, but will find areas of mutual interest on which to cooperate, if only to obtain spare parts for its US-made F-16s, which have been grounded since the US embargoed exports over human rights abuses. The next time America decides to punish Indonesia, however, Indonesia’s air force won’t be so badly crippled. The US will have to rely on persuasion, even on diplomacy, to get its way.

Indonesia is the paradigmatic moderate Muslim nation that the administration thinks it is going to create elsewhere as a way of keeping America safe, but this is how the Post editorial concludes:

Indonesia is a friend of the United States but not an ally. We assert our right to differ from the U.S. on issues of policy and even to maintain friendly ties with countries the U.S. does not necessarily approve of.

Indonesia is huge country. Only China, India and the US are more populous. It was just a matter of time before Indonesia, like India and China, began to demand a proportionate place in the eyes of the world, an emergence which must come as a further shock to the hegemonic aspirations of the Bush administration, so bogged down in Iraq it must even speak with Iran. Indonesia--especially Java--is known for wayang, its traditional puppet dramas. Sudarsono was clearly playing the role of puppeteer, not puppet, during the press conference with Donald Rumsfeld.

However, there’s another reason for an elected government in Jakarta to catch attention by talking tough in public. A report by the Congressional Research Service says that the percentage of Indonesians with a favorable image of the US was only 15% in 2003, a drop from 79% in 1999. I don’t need a new survey to know that we’re even less loved in 2006.

Imogiri tourism



Imogiri is the official cemetery of the royal descendents from Yogyakarta and Surakarta. This cemetery located on a beautiful hill about 12 km from Yogyakarta. The royal graveyard is reachable by 345 stone steps leading to it. Imogiri is about 17 km Southeast of Yogyakarta and easily accessible by the bus of car. The tombs are built within three main courtyards. This Graveyard is the tomb of Sultan Agung Hanyokrokusumo, the third king of the Islamic Mataram Kingdom. All the kings of the Mataram Kingdom, from Sultan Hamengku Buwono I until Hamengku Buwono IX and their families as the Surakarta Kingdoms as well were all buried at the Imogiri Royal Cemetery.

SONOBUDOYO MUSEUM

This museum is founded in November 1935 and designed by the Dutch architect Kersten. This Museum is built in traditional Javanese architecture. It exhibits weapons, leather and wooden puppets of Wayang Theater, masks, statues, textiles, curios and old Javanese gamelan instruments. The museum is situated on the northern side of the city's main square in front of the Sultan's Palace. Sonobudoyo museum is located on the north side of the North Square of Sultan's Palace. It was built in 1935 according to Javanese architecture. The architecture of gateway resembles to the entrance of the mosque in Kudus in the way to the auditorium and main Joglo structure, which are connected, while Kudus is the most ancient town in Java Island beside Kotagede. The museum has the second most complete collection of cultural artifacts after the central museum in Jakarta, like ceramic from the Neolithic Age, statues and bronze articles from the 8th, 9th and 10th century originating from Central Java temples, various kinds of masks and wayang (puppet for shadow play), a gamelan or orchestra, an ancient weapon collection, the looms and artifacts from Bali. This museum is also an interesting library that keeps various ancient books related to the Javanese culture.

KALIURANG

This resort is located on the slopes of Mt. Merapi, 24 km north of Yogyakarta and surrounded by an enchanting countryside. "Telogo Muncar" waterfall and swimming pool make this resort a very pleasant recreation place. Kaliurang lies at the foot of Plawangan hill on the southern slope of mount Merapi, some 28 km, north of Yogyakarta. This is a refreshing holiday resort for those seeking refuge and tranquility amidst the lush green tropical splendor.

Many people visit Kaliurang, especially during the holidays. Young people, like boy scouts, enjoy going there since the town provides camping sites and places for mountaineering. Those who like mountain climbing can climb Merapi Mountain from Kaliurang. One can stay overnight in Kaliurang then start, in the early morning, climbs Merapi via Kinahrejo village to descend again at noon.

KALASAN TEMPLE

Kalasan Temple is built in Kalasan village about 2 km west of Prambanan, 15 km from Yogyakarta. _It is dedicated to a Buddhist Goddess, TARA. It is 6 meters tall and has 52 stupas. This unique Buddhist temple is located east of Yogyakarta, on the south side of the main road between Yogyakarta and Solo. It was built in honor of the marriage between king Pancapana of Sanjaya Dynasty and a Princess of Syailendra Dynasty, named Dyah Pramudya Wardhani. It is beautifully ornamented with finely carved relief and coated with "vajralepa", a yellowish material made from the sap of a certain tree. The vajralepa functioned as an adhesive and as protection against moss and mildew, while at the same time it refined the carvings. This temple is 24 m high and its base built in the form of a Greek cross.

PRAMBANAN TEMPLE

This is the most famous and also the most magnificent of Central Java's temples or more precisely complex of temples. Situated about 15 kilometers from Yogyakarta, the top of the main shrine is visible from a great distance and rises high above the scattered ruins of the former temples. Prambanan is the masterpiece of Hindu culture of the tenth century. The slim building soaring up to 47 meters makes its beautiful architecture incomparable. Seventeen kilometers east of Yogyakarta, King Balitung Maha Sambu built the Prambanan temple in the middle of the ninth century. Its parapets are adorned with bas-reliefs depicting the famous Ramayana story. This magnificent Shivaite temple derives it name from the village where it is located.

Borobudur

Central Java Province, as one of the Indonesia tourist destination areas, offers various kinds of tourist attractions whether natural, cultural, or man made features. Central Java is located exactly in the middle of Java Island. It borders with West Java Province in the western part, while in the eastern part borders with East Java Province. On the part of the southern side lies also the province of Yogyakarta Special Region. Central Java is the island's cultural, geographic, and historic heartland. Universities, dance schools, pottery, handicrafts, textiles and carving, give to the region a rich culture and interesting shopping. This is also the place of the famous Javanese temples of Borobudur. But it is not the only ones to be noted; Dieng plateau and Sukuh temple are worth a visit. Performing arts is still widely practiced, and traditional dance dramas (Wayang Orang) or shadow puppets (Wayang Kulit) performances are easy to find. Mountains cross the entire central portion of the province. The cool slopes contain numerous hill resorts (Tawangmangu, Kaliurang, Sarangan).

Kamis, 06 Maret 2008

Travel to Indonesia

Why Travel to Indonesia:

The world's largest archipelago [13,677 islands], Indonesia has a huge variety of wonderful landscapes and strange islands, from the terraced rice paddies of Bali to the forests of Sumatra, from bizarre, diverse cultures and traditions of the primitive Dani folk [picture above right] to the weird Torajah buildings and customs [picture above left].
The people however strangely attired are calm and friendly; the food is wonderful, the wildlife diverse and there is no shortage of activities.
Finally, masses of gorgeous, stylish, little ethnic hotels offer chic comfort at the right price.

Downside:
- In some years, air pollution 'Haze' has been serious in summertime.
- Political instability may also be a problem, though not so much in Bali, Sulawesi or Lombok.

- Travel from one island to another is time consuming and expensive.
- Because of its popularity, some places such as Kuta in Bali are too touristy and the local people can be unusually mercenary.

Where to travel in Indonesia:

Bali: Despite high tourism, Bali maintains a rich and colourful Hindu heritage.
Ubud is a relaxed and charming rural town with terrific shabby-chic hotels, beautiful rice terraces, fantastic festivals and excellent arts and crafts.
Candi Dasa is one of the best soft beaches nearby, or Kuta for huge expanses of hard sand, frequently rough water, superb restaurants and a wild night life.

For more Balinese isolation try travelling 3 hours from Denpasar to northwest coast for black sands, turquoise water, grey rocky outcrops and green paddy fields. There's a lot to do here, including birdwatching in Bali Barat National Park, boating and fishing in Gilimanuk Bay and diving or snorkelling 5 miles offshore at Deer Island.
See Indonesia Pictures I

Java: Yogyakarta is an attractive market town, good for local culture and batik, while Pranmbanan,

the world's 8th largest Hindu temple complex is certainly worth a day.
Then there's Borobudur, one of the finest Buddhist monuments in S.E Asia.
Jakarta, on the other hand, we'd prefer to be hanged than spend another night in Java's unpleasant capital city.

Sulawesi [Tana Toraja]: for some really unique and bizarre indigenous customs [especially the funeral ceremonies], boat-shaped housing, lovely rural landscapes and excellent trekking.
See Indonesia Pictures II.

Irian Jaya [Balim Valley]: strangest of all Indonesia's provinces where the Dani people still retain an ancient culture and men wear penis gourds. Hiking here is often damp and accommodation can be basic [e.g. sleeping on straw next to a mummified body] but you won't forget this place. See Indonesia Pictures II

Kalimantan [Borneo] wildlife: for Banjarmasin, floating markets and Dayak people or Pangkalanbun as a base for Tnjung Puting National Park walks and boating